Rosé of Nebbiolo, Conterno 'Nervi'

The biggest news from Piemonte over the past few years has been Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Gattinara’s venerable Nervi estate, adding its iconic vineyards to his Francia, Cerretta, and Arione as jewels in Piemonte’s greatest crown. Interest in the region — and Nervi in particular — has only ratcheted up and while the Gattinaras garner the headlines here, longtime Nervi devotees know the estate was also renowned for its Rosato — a fragrant blend of Nebbiolo and a local grape called Uva Rara. But Roberto felt that an even more expressive rosé could be made by eliminating the Uva Rara.

Fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees in tank for four months, the 2023 Rosato builds on a beautiful combination of bright red fruits  and florals with an underlying tension and volcanic minerality. Uber-fresh – with a bit of snappy prickle on the tongue in this youthful stage – it unveils white jasmine, green tea, and juicy dark cherry, and is at once a round, rich, and tactile wine without ever relinquishing focus and drive, extending into a polished and lengthy finish.

This is about as serious as rosé gets without ever losing an ounce of delectability and delight. It will do great service alongside a lot of different cuisines and also drink great all by its lonesome. Just like all Roberto's other wines, the demand is bound to outstrip supply by a wide margin....